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SOMSEN HORIZON |
Volume 2, number.4 - November 1999 |
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FROM THE ACHTERHOEK KITCHEN by Ada Somsen [75] In many a house in the Achterhoek and then also far away, Achterhoek
local dishes used to be prepared. Somsen have very good memories about that,
or ... still shiver when they think about it. We invite all donors to let us enjoy old dishes that used to be
popular in their part of the family. This may become an interesting exchange
across the oceans! Copy is very welcome. Now take out your pan, and a big one, because this is the first
recipe: Balkenbrij '). Introduction: Balkenbrij was originally a farmers' dish that used to be prepared in
the butchering season, November. So that nothing would be lost, the 'useless'
parts of the slaughter, such as rest meat, but especially fat, bacon,
dripping, sometimes organ meat and also blood were processed. One cooked this completely in the cooking fluid of sausage or liver,
while adding currants, raisins, anise, clove. Then with some flour, whatever was available, usually groats or
buckwheat, it was stirred and cooked to a solid mass. Every region had its
own variant. Years ago I made balkenbrij myself. After years of cooking (especially
around Christmas) the recipe became more and more 'advanced' and grew to a
glorified form of balkenbrij. The result of my 'developed' recipe is now more comparable to a tasty
pastry than with the original flour dish. Also, my balkenbrij is in no way (except for the name) related to the
'balkenbrij' the one can sometimes buy at the butcher around Christmas. In my opinion the butcher's variety is a mealy and tasteless, flabby
substance. Once you have made my recipe, you will definitely not like the
butcher's variety anymore. Two more remarks before we start. To my own surprise I have never written down my recipe. Its been a
number of years since I last made it. This means that I had to dig into my memory. When I made the recipe, I always make large amount in a real mess tin.
Then I usually gave three quarters away. It makes a nice Christmas
present! So, don't worry about the required amounts. You can safely deviate from it or add something. It's not so strict. Here comes the balkenbrij. Put a big pan on the stove, preferably with a thick bottom; two and a
half to three times as big as the amount of water that is added (the pan should be approximately 1/3 filled with water).
The ingredients * at least 3 litres cold water; ca 1000 gram meat, cut in
blocks of 1 to 1½ cm, consist of: at least 300 gram
lean beef, at least 300 gram lean pork (e.g. pork
steak or chop) and at least 300 gram rasher of
bacon. ca 20 laurel leafs, ca 20
cloves, pepper, salt, and meat herbs. For the binding: * A large strong wooden spoon that easily reaches above the pan *.At least 4 to 5 packs (of 500 gram each) of buckwheat flour; NB: I do not remember the exact amount. At least be sure to have
sufficient flour (better too much than too little. What remains can be
used next time. Further: four strong arms with perseverance. Possibly arrange for a second
helper. Prepare mentally for a heavy job! |
The work 1.
Put the pan with the water on the
stove. Make sure that the pan is stable (otherwise the disaster disaster may
be complete during the binding process. I speak from experience). 2.
Add the cut meat that has been cut
in small blocks. 3.
Add the laurel and cloves. Count
from each the exact number and write it down somewhere! 4.
Then add pepper, salt and meat
herbs. Don't be economical on this. Let it boil for many hours (at least five) on a low fire, so that a
very strong broth is formed. The broth should be so strong that your tongue
curls when you taste it. After some hours 1.
Possibly add water to the old
level if the volume of the broth reduces too much and bring the broth up to
the boiling point again. 2.
Put the fire as low as possible. Remove
with a skimmer all, and I mean all, laurel leafs and cloves. Count the
number. 3.
Call your muscled helper and let
her/him hold the pan by handles, preferably with oven gloves, and press it
firmly against the stove, so that it can't move. 4.
Take the wooden spoon in the
strongest hand, and slowly add the first pack of buckwheat flour to the broth
while stirring (this is not hard yet). Don't worry if you see lumps appear;
This is part of the binding process. In the end it should be on big solid
lump. 5.
Slowly add, in small amounts, the
next packs of buckwheat flour. Keep on stirring, even if it becomes hard
after a while. If necessary use both hands for the stirring and don't be distracted
by helpless moaning of your muscled helper. Have someone in stand-by if necessary. 6.
Keep on adding buckwheat flour
until the spoon stands in the mashpot. When you pull out the wooden spoon, it
should make a strong sucking and flapping sound. Only then is the binding process
finished. 7.
Switch of the fire under the pan! The completion 1.
Collect a number of flat,
preferably oval dishes or plates and sprinkle these thinly with buckwheat
flour. 2.
Scoop an amount of brij on the
dish with the wooden spoon; sprinkle your hands with flour and form the brij
to a bread shape of ca 20 cm wide and 6 to 7 cm high. 3.
Lightly sprinkle each filled this
with some more flour. 4.
Cover each dish with a moist
(tea)towel. 5.
Put all dishes on a cool place and
let everything stiffen overnight. The balkenbrij only tastes good on the next day. The preparation 1.
Cut the balkenbrij in slices of
ca. 1 to 1½ cm thick. 2.
Heat the frying pan with a small
lump of hard vet, e.g. hard frying fat. Preferably don't use oil. This has a
too dominant taste. 3.
Fry the slice of balkenbrij crispy
on both sides; as many slices as the pan (and your belly) can hold. 4.
Eat the fried balkenbrij on a
slice of preferably white bread. 5.
Do not keep everything for
yourself, but also give some away. Did it taste nice? Report it to me. Did it fail? Find the error and try again. ') Balkenbrij = scrapple, a dish made from offal, buckwheat flour and
raisins.
FAMILY BOOKS For the last time we offer the few
left family books 'Somsen Omnes Generationes'. This final offer is at $ 50
including mailing. Please note that the stock is
limited and your orders will be dealt within the order as we receive them. To order a book make your check or money order ($ 50) payable to: Mrs Marieke Edwards 920 East Bay Dr. NE # 3D301 Olympia, WA 98506 USA |
